Although easily overlooked, an air conditioner condensate drain line is a very important component of your HVAC system. This pipe and drainage system keep your air conditioner, and your home, safe from costly damage.
Most Colorado homes today are cooled with a split system, central air conditioner. Warm air is drawn in through ductwork and cooled as it passes over an evaporator coil located with the furnace or air handler inside your home. This cooled air is then returned throughout the home.
During this process the evaporator coil becomes covered in condensation. It’s similar to a glass of ice tea on a hot day. After several minutes in the heat, the glass becomes covered in beads of water. Droplets of water form on your evaporator coil in the same fashion. When everything is operating properly these droplets slide down the sides of the evaporator coil into a condensate drain pan. From the pan the condensate flows into a condensate drain line. At the end of the condensate drain line, it drips out to a floor drain inside your home or on to the ground outside your home.
So, your condensate line originates at the bottom of your evaporator coil where the condensate drain pan is located. Condensate lines are usually made from either copper or white PVC plastic. When you see dripping from the end of the condensate line it means that the condensate line is functioning properly. If condensation does not have a place to go from the pan, it will drip all over your HVAC system and your home.
Depending on the setup of your condensate line, the water will exit the line with the simple force of gravity. In some instances, a small pump may be used to help move condensate water more effectively than gravity alone can.
You might also have a secondary, backup condensate drain line. If there is an issue with the primary condensate line, the secondary line acts as a backup to help avoid water damage. High efficiency furnaces and boilers also have condensate drain lines.
Although this system is simple, it’s not always trouble free. Algae or other debris can build up in your condensate line. When the blockage becomes too large, water can no longer pass through the pipe. With nowhere else to go, the water remains in your drain pan and causes problems. Moisture left inside your system can lead to mildew, mold, and corrosion. If there are issues draining, the water in the drain pan may overflow causing water damage to your HVAC system, ceilings and walls or floors depending upon where your system is located. In rare cases, a clog can also cause a house fire when the backed-up water leaks onto electrical components of your system. If you have a newer system, it probably has a failsafe switch near the drain pan. If the pan becomes too full, the failsafe switch turns off your air conditioner. Until you drain the pan, your air conditioner will not work. So, a properly working condensate line is very important.
A few signs of a clogged condensate line include water dripping from the pan below the evaporator coil, water at the base of your furnace or air handler, water leaking from your ceiling or attic, stained ceilings or walls, excess humidity in your home, unpleasant moldy odors, or issues with your air conditioner shutting off and not turning back on.
As we mentioned earlier, some air conditioners automatically shut off when the condensate line backs up. If your air conditioner did not shut off automatically, the first step is to turn it off yourself. You don’t want it to continue running, adding more water to an already clogged situation. There are several methods you can use to clear a clog from your drain line. If you’re not comfortable clearing the line yourself you may always call on us.
Some clogs can be removed with suction from a wet/dry vacuum. Attach the vacuum hose to the end of the drain line. Make sure you have an airtight seal. You can secure a cloth towel or duct tape around the opening of the drain line to make sure you have a good seal between the vacuum hose and the drain line. Run the vacuum for a minute or two. Open the vacuum and see if you’ve removed the clog. If you see some algae buildup, or a lot of brown-colored water, you likely removed the clog. If the vacuum is empty, repeat the process again. If the clog does not clear after several attempts, you may have a severe clog that needs to be cleared by a professional.
Another option is to pour a liquid down the condensate line to break up the clog internally. Your condensate drain line may have an access port on it to aid in clearing clogs. If so, it will be located where the condensate line originates at your indoor unit. Simply pour a cup of vinegar or hydrogen peroxide down the access port and let it sit for 30 minutes while the chemicals begin to make their way through the drain. This can help break down the clog, making it easier to pass on its own. After the 30 minutes is up, flush the drain with water to ensure everything is flowing as it should.
If your condensation line is clear, but you still have water dripping from below the evaporator coil you may have another problem.
Over time condensate drain pans made of metal can corrode, while pans made from plastic can develop cracks. When a pan develops holes or cracks, water can leak out of the cracks and holes in the pan instead of flowing into the drain line.
Dirty or high MERV rated air filters restrict airflow over the evaporator coil. Without proper airflow, the coil can get too cold and freeze. When this ice melts, dripping into the condensation pan, it can overflow due to the excess volume.
If your condensate line has a pump to assist in the removal of condensate water from the system. If the pump is not properly maintained, becomes plugged or fails, condensate water can overflow or leak causing damage.
We hope you have found this article to be beneficial. If you are having condensate drain line problems that you can’t resolve yourself, please call us. We’ll be happy to help.
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